Big Sky Country

It's late May and I have decided to grab my old college roommate, Tony Boyle, and head north. Tony is an agreeable traveling companion and after several similar trips together, I'm confident he will endure my ramblings and idiosyncracies. We have often traveled together to meet up with another college buddy who lives in Darby, Montana. This time the plan is to head north through Wyoming, overnight at the most northerly city in the state: Sheridan. The following day we will head to Montana and visit the sight of Custer's Last Stand at the Little Bighorn River. I had just finished reading a new biography of General Custer and Sitting Bull by Nathaniel Philbrick and I was very interested in piecing together the battle and revisiting the site. That was the plan and I was looking forward to the journey.

We left early on Monday morning and drove the entire day through the exciting towns of Rock Springs; Lander; Riverton; Worland and Buffalo. Rock Springs, is an old mining town with a population of about 18,000 people. It is located in an energy-rich region that boasts a large number of oil and natural gas wells. With the recent rise in oil prices, there is considerably more activity taking place in the oil fields. Lander is named for transcontinental explorer Frederick W. Lander, Lander is located in central Wyoming, along the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River. It is located just south of the Wind River Indian Reservation. About seven thousand people call Lander home including a fair number of Native Americans.

We left Lander and drove the twenty-five miles to Riverton, just about the center of the state. Riverton is an old farming community where sugar beets reigned supreme as the crop of choice throughout the nineteenth century and beyond. There was a major spike in growth in the city when in 1953, uranium was found in the hills surrounding the city. Fifty-five miles later and we found ourselves in the steaming town of Thermopolis. Thermopolis is tucked among the foothills of the Owl Creek Mountains beside the Big Horn River. It’s one of those small, picturesque towns where the elevation is higher than the population. The town is renowned and named for being home to the World’s Largest Mineral Hot Spring.

Originally part of the Wind River Indian Reservation, the Shoshone and Arapahoe Tribes sold this land to the United States in 1896 so that the healing waters of Big Horn Hot Springs would be available to the public. (I know this because Wikipedia told me so!).

When we reached Worland, we headed east on U.S. Highway 16 until we reached the sleepy little town of Ten Sleep an American An Indian rest stop, so called because it was 10 days travel, or “10 sleeps,” from Fort Laramie (southeast), Yellowstone National Park (west-northwest), and the Indian Agency on the Stillwater River in Montana (northwest). Today the three hundred plus residents of Ten Sleep rely on ranching and tourism as their primary means of economic survival.

We continued driving through the Bighorn Mountains and over the Powder River Pass. The Big Horn Mountain Divide is the high-elevation backbone of the mountain range, which has its southern end in Wyoming and its northern end in Montana. Along the highway we saw long segments of tall wooden fences, standing at an angle to the roadway. These snow fences divert blowing and drifting snow away from the road.

Shortly after travceling over the pass we arrived at the town of Buffalo. The population was 3,900 at the 2000 census. It is the county seat of Johnson County. In recent years, the town has boomed economically due to methane production from the coal bed methane extraction method used in the Powder River Basin and surrounding areas. Founded in 1879 by homesteaders, cattle ranchers, and miners, Buffalo was not named for the animal, but for Buffalo, New York, hometown of one early settler, Alvin J. McCray. By 1883, there were a dozen saloons in town, but no churches. While an old buffalo trail did once run down Main Street, Buffalo’s streets are most famous for being the only place in the US where you can make a legal U-turn on a highway bridge, right in the middle of town. As the Johnson County Seat, Buffalo also claims the distinction of having hosted the oldest county fair in the state in 1887.

We left Buffalo and drove the remaining thirty-five miles to Sheridan where we will overnight before heading to our final destionation on this leg of the trip: the Little-Bighorn Battlefield. We drove down Main Street and encountered road construction virtually throughout the town. We took the detours and eventually wound back on Main Street where the Trail's End Motel awaited my tired body. The Trail's End is certainly not high-end, but it served the purpose and at the right price. After we settled in, it was time to look for a restaurant and since we were in the mood for Mexican, we chose Los Agaves on Coffeen avenue (which BTW is the only Mexican restaurant in town). The food wasn't exceptional, but it was tolerable and reasonably priced. Time to head back to the motel.

The next morning we arose and ate a hearty breakfast at the motel restaurant - wow! $3.50 for guests. We packed up and headed out of town, but before we left we stopped at a convenience store for gas and discovered a major mess: Interstate 90 was flooded and there was no way we were going to the Battlefield today or perhaps several days. Bummer! It seems the only way out of town was on Highway 14 heading west to Lovell. The road to Lovell would eventually lead to Billings and then to Bozeman our next stop. After we left Dayton, a small town of about six hundred souls and sitting at about 4,000 feet in elevation, we reached Burgess Junction in the Bighorn National Forest. If we drive south we will find Greybull, east will take us to Lovell. We head east and reach the summit at at almost ninety-five hundred feet.

Lovell, Montana experienced its fifteen minutes of fame in the 1980's when the town was the center of a scandal when Dr. John Story was discovered to be sexually abusing patients. He was convicted on six separate charges of sexually assaulting his patients in 1985. The dominant religion is The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints. There are several other churches in town including Roman Catholic, Lutheran and Baptist. There is also a small group of Fundamentalist Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints living near town. Lovell is located near the Bighorn Mountains and the Bighorn River. We passed through Lovell as quickly as we could, however, the road into Montana was under heavy construction, so out journey was considerably delayed.

Eventually we reached our destination: Bozeman, Montana. Bozeman is the county seat of Gallatin County and was named after John M. Bozeman who established the Bozeman Trail and was a key founder of the town in August 1864. It is also the home of the Montana State Bobcats where about ten thousand undergrads study or do other things.
We were meeting Boyle's nephew Dana and his two daughters: Sammie and Allie, at Ted's Montana Grill.
Ted's is a bit of a misnomer because it is actually a large chain found in places as far south as Florida and east as New York. The restaurant is located in the Baxter Hotel on Main Street. The Baxter, located in the heart of Bozeman’s downtown historic district, has been the social hub for dining and nightlife in Southwest Montana since its opening in 1929. I was looking forward to the BBQ Bison Shortribs that I had noticed on their website.

Unfortunately, Shortrib night was Saturday and this was Tuesday so I settled on the Bison Ribeye. This was my first experience with Bison ribeye and I decided that I far preferred beef - the bison was good, but not as juicy or as fat as beef. The redeeming feature was that it is by far a healthier choice (but who wants healthy when dining out???). Dana and the girls were good company and we enjoyed hearing about their lives.

We bid farewell to our dinner guests and checked in at the Marriott Residence Inn on Valley Center Drive. Fortunately, I had a free night at Marriott and it was good for the one bedroom suite. The room had a pull out sofa, as well as, a separate bedroom. Of course, Boyle would be sleeping on the pull out and I would suffer on the king-sized bed. And, oh yes, I gave Boyle a choice.

We enjoyed the excellent breakfast at the hotel the next morning and then jumped in the car to head West to our final Montana destination: Darby. I was careful with my speed, though tempted to shoot for triple digits, Montana now has a speed limit. From 1995 until 1999, the daytime maximum speed limit in Montana was "reasonable and prudent"; it is now 75 miles per hour. I'm sure that this restriction by the Montana legislature has helped boost the revenues of many a county. I-90 runs east and west and is the longest interstate in the United States. It begins at Boston and ends at Seattle, the Montana portion is the longest at over 550 miles.

About an hour west of Bozeman is the town of Three Forks historically considered the birthplace or start of the Missouri River. We stopped for a few minutes at the Missouri Headwaters State Park, where the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin Rivers converge to form the Missouri River. The three rivers, west to east, were named by Meriwether Lewis in late July 1805 for President Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of State James Madison, and Treasury Secretary Albert Gallatin. In July, 1805, The Lewis and Clark Expedition visited the site.


Honored in Three Forks, the Indian woman Sacagawea is best known as the interpreter and guide for the Lewis and Clark Expedition. In 1800, she was captured by the Mennetaree tribe near the present site of Three Forks. She later returned to this area with Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery. A statue of Sacagawea now sits in a park off Main Street. There is a beautiful hotel in the middle of town and would be great place to spend a night - maybe next time.

We drove on I-90 through Butte and then headed south on I-15 until we reached Divide. Divide is so named because of its proximity to the Continental Divide. At Divide we again headed west on Montana 43 through the Beaverhead National Forest. The road parallels the Big Hole River and is truly some beautiful country.
We stopped for lunch at the Crossing in the small town of Wisdom. By the way, not all "Ma & Pa's" restaurants measure up to their reputation for down-home cooking, but a guess a burger is a burger. There are about a hundred folks living in Wisdom and I didn't notice that any of them appeared to be any wiser than you and me. Actually the town was named for the Wisdom River which is now the Big Hole. Just thought you'd like to know.



After lunch we drove another hour or so to Jack Herbert's place on the West Fork in Darby. Jack, Boyle and I are attended (sometimes) Ogden High School together and taught each other a lot of bad habits, most of which have long since been discarded.

Jack was on the upper portion of his land hauling lumber to his small mill. Jack has about twenty acres of prime lumber and if he is in need of a few dollars he just fells a couple of pines and mills them for the locals. Jack is a true minimalist which according to Sonny's blog is basically a lifestyle that is free of complications, clutter,confusion and distraction. It's where you have taken your life and streamlined it to make it the most efficient it can possibly be. I am not a minimalist and as a matter of fact, I could easily be a maximalist.

Jack grows virtually all of his produce and manages to bag an elk on his property every year. His garden and greenhouse are extremely productive due in no small measure to the fact that he uses an outhouse - this is called ultimate recycling. Jack is an excellent chef and he prepared a delectable meal that evening. I very much enjoyed the elk, but passed on the veggies.

Friends are the one thing Jack has in abundance and we had the opportunity to meet several of them during our stay. They are generally not the kind of people you would find walking down the street in Morgan, Utah, however, they are interesting, intelligent and fun-filled folks with an appetite for all things natural. Jack does maintain one luxury and that is the internet, it allows him to keep up with the daily events of the world (not that he cares!) and provides a source of communication with his many friends.

I even noticed what appeared to be a sixties vintage, thirteen inch television with an antennae on a shelf - no satellite or
cable here man. As you can readily see from the photo of Jack on the right - he's a distinctive fellow with a very distinct lifestyle - more power to him!


The next evening we all went to dinner at The Naughty Moose in Sula, about ten miles down the road. Dan and Christy have the recipe for outstanding food, service and ambience. I think folks come from miles around to dine in their rustic restaurant. I always look forward to a hearty meal and I've never been disappointed. Tonight I ordered the country fried steak and a caesar salad. This is the first time I had ordered this traditional bit of comfort food and I wasn't sure what to expect. If you are ever in Sula and stop at the Moose for dinner,but be warned; the country fried steak is large enough to feed an army. I managed to get through about half the serving and sent the rest home with Jack.

The following day, we all jumped in the car and drove to Hamilton, a slightly larger town about thirty miles up the road. Jack's friend, Sally, works at the Hamilton Library and we enjoyed lunch with her at a local cafe. After lunch we met up with one of Jack's music-playing buddies and enjoyed listening to some improvised guitar and drum playing. Jack is an accomplished drummer and often gathers with his friends for an evening of music and other activities. Jack's hospitality was very much appreciated - we stayed in his Dad's vacant cabin on the upper part of the property and it actually has a bathroom! Unfortunately, after a couple of relaxing and enjoyable days with Jack on the West Fork it was time to head home.

The next morning we packed up and headed south back through Wisdom and then caught Montana 278 through Jackson and the Big Hole Pass to Dillon. Dillon's average annual temperature is 58 degrees and the only months that exceed eighty are July and August. It is "cold country". Twenty miles further down I-15 and we reached Clark Canyon Dam, aptly named for William Clark, the other half of Lewis. Clark Canyon Dam is an earthfill dam. The dam impounds the waters of the Beaverhead River, creating a body of water known as Clark Canyon Reservoir. Construction of the dam and reservoir required the relocation of U.S. Route 91 and a main line of the Union Pacific Railroad.

The reservoir inundated the former site of the small community of Armstead, Montana, and the site of Camp Fortunate, where the Lewis and Clark Expedition camped from August 17 to 22, 1805 and held negotiations with the Shoshone. If you head west at the dam you will cross over the Lemhi Pass. In mid-August 1805, Lewis and three other members of the Corps of Discovery had left the main group behind in search of native inhabitants of the area, heading toward Beaverhead Rock. On August 12, this small group came to Lemhi Pass, a two-mile span stretching across the present-day border between Montana and Idaho. Nestled among these mountains and bridging the gap between the ranges of the Rockies, Lemhi Pass maintains its unobtrusive, yet momentous, place in our nation's history. As they ventured westward, the party came across some of the most imposing landscapes that they had ever encountered--peaks upon jagged peaks as far as the eye could see. The crossing of this pass--the Continental Divide, a ridge extending North and South along the Rocky Mountains' Beaverhead Range--would prove one of the greatest achievements of Lewis and Clark's expedition to the West Coast. The first Americans to do so, the crew officially left United States territory, journeyed into disputed lands claimed by various European powers and reaffirmed their desire to reach the Pacific Ocean. Lewis and his men also came to the westernmost reaches of the now less than mighty Missouri River. (I know all these things since I read about them in Wikipedia).

We stopped for a few minutes at the campground adjacent to the reservoir and the headed on south to Lima. Lima is on the Red Rock River some fifteen miles from the Monida Pass, which separates Montana from Idaho. The community was originally called Allerdice; then, when a station of the Utah and Northern (Union Pacific) was built there, it was called Spring Hill. The name Lima was chosen by Henry Thompson for his home, Lima, Wisconsin. (from Cheney's Names on the Face of Montana, Mountain Press Publishing Company)


Not far from Lima, Red Rock Lake National Wildlife Refuge is located in the extreme southwest portion of Montana near the Idaho border. The Centennial Mountains rise steeply to the south providing a scenic atmosphere. The Refuge was established in 1935 to protect the rare trumpeter swan. Lima is also home to Jan's Cafe, right off the interstate, surely the best burger you'll find anywhere. I always time my visit through Lima around lunch time so I can enjoy one of Jan's succulent burgers. Jan is the owner and her pies were rated the very best by Montana Magazine.

After a full stomach, we head back south again to the Idaho border. We pass Mud Lake and Roberts and then hit the busy stretch of I-15 as we pass Idaho Falls. Idaho Falls serves as a hub to all of eastern Idaho and much of western Wyoming. Due to its relative economic vitality, high quality of life, and proximity to world-class outdoor recreation, it is often featured in various publications' lists of "best places to live.

Fifty miles south of Idaho Falls lies the old railroad town of Pocatello. I Thought you might be interested in a little (just a little) history of this old gold rush town. The discovery of gold in Idaho in 1860 brought the first large wave of U.S. settlers to the region. The Portneuf Valley became an important conduit for transportation of goods and freight. In 1877, railroad magnate Jay Gould of the Union Pacific Railroad acquired and extended the Utah and Northern Railway, which had previously stopped at the Utah border, into Idaho through the Portneuf Canyon. "Pocatello Junction", as it was first called, was founded as a stop along this route during the gold rush. After the gold rush subsided, the region began to attract ranchers and farmers. By 1882, the first residences and commercial development appeared in Pocatello.

Anyway, we quickly passed by "Poky" and continued our journey home. We arrived late in the afternoon on the third of June, our five day trip through Wyoming, Montana and Idaho had come to an end. We experienced the entire spectrum of activity during this brief outing: rough roads; bad weather; new friends; old friends; interesting sights; good and not so good food but most all enjoying each other's company. You'd think after a fifty year friendship there wouldn't be much to say, but we always seem to find something new and interesting to talk about - even if we do repeat ourselves frequently.

My Life

Click here to view this photo book larger

Alaska - The Last Frontier

Today was May the 18th and I was about to catch a plane to Denver to meet some friends. Driving to the airport, I was mentally calculating how many years I have known these two old friends and what circumstances brought us together. Russ Boersma and I started in the college publishing game with Holt, Rinehart & Winston about the same time, he in December of 1975 and me in February of 1976. David Hall came along in January of 1980. Both of these guys have been a part of a my life for almost three decades and I was excited to join them for the first time since I had retired in 2006. Two of my favorite places are Denver and Kansas City, the hometowns of David and Russ, I think part of the reason that I feel so much at home in these two cities is because they live there.

My plane touched down about noon and David and Russ were waiting to greet me at baggage claim. Our visit was actually determined by Russ' decision to drive to Salt Lake City enroute to our final destination of Seattle. We thought it might be a good opportunity to meet in Denver and join David for lunch and then travel together back to Utah. Russ' wife, Naomi would meet us in Seattle and the four of us (Shirley, my faithful spouse) would board the Golden Princess for our cruise to Alaska and the Inside Passage.

After we left the Denver Airport, we drove to downtown Denver and Larimer Square across the street from the Auraria campus where David and I spent many a day scouring the halls looking for potential business. We stopped at Ted's Montana Grill (yes, Ted Turner is an owner) for lunch and I ordered one of my favorites, buffalo meatloaf. We spent a couple of hours enjoying each others company and afterwards went across the street to the Cry Baby ranch (the short guy is me), a mish mash of interesting cowboy-oriented art and crafts. We had a really nice time reminiscing and discussing the current state of affairs in college publishing. Russ is still active in the business but since David and I have retired, we can afford to take a more jaundiced view of the business. However, we all could agreed that there was a time when college publishing was a great deal more fun and interesting - before the bean counters brought their sharp knives. We really miss those early days.

All good things must end and so our brief reunion had ended and David headed home to Fort Collins while Russ and I drove further to Cheyenne, Wyoming and Warren Air Force Base where we would spend the night before heading to Utah. Russ is a railroad buff and Cheyenne is a mecca for folks interested in railroad history. The construction of the Union Pacific Railroad across Wyoming from 1867 to 1868 opened the state to permanent settlement.

Cheyenne rose from the barren plains in the fall of 1867 and to become a hub for shipping and railroad maintenance. We took time to visit the Cheyenne Depot Museum and gaze in wonder at the Big Boy Steam Engine, built in 1941, Old Number 4004 is the world's largest steam locomotive. This powerful coal-fired engine was designed to pull a 3600-ton train over steep grades without helper engines. Housed at the Union Pacific Main Yard is steam engine No. 844, still in service, recently made a visit to Ogden, Utah and attracted hundreds of fans. It was an interesting visit and I vowed a return trip.

The next morning we left for the journey to my home in Morgan, Utah. We both would stay for another day at my home and then we would all jump back in the car and head to Seattle. The trip to Seattle requires an over night stay and so we chose to drive a fairly long day and reach Pendleton, Oregon. Pendleton is home to the world famous Pendleton Woolen Mills and has been around for a hundred years making blankets and plaid shirts - I think they were more popular when I was younger. I know they were expensive and highly prized. We stayed the night at the luxurious Motel 6 and left early the next day for our final stop in Seattle.

We arrived in Seattle in mid-afternoon and found our hotel, the Marriott Spring Hills Suites near Seatac, and quickly freshened up in anticipation of our dinner at Duke's Chowder House at Lake Union. Without a doubt, Duke's award winning chowder is absolutely the best clam chowder I have ever tasted and sitting here writing about it causes my mouth to water. He also serves variations that include crab and bourbon, crayfish and lobster pernod. My favorite will always remain his delectable clam chowder - don't pass it up if you find yourself in Seattle. Russ agreed, it was the best ever!

The next morning we repacked and headed to the airport to pick-up Naomi who was arriving from Kansas City. After pushing and shoving the luggage into the luggage compartment, we made a quick stop at Trader Joe's, another favorite of ours. Trader Joe's is a grocery store, but much more, it is packed with interesting food stuff from every where in the world. We grabbed a few unique items, a couple of bottles of wine and some snacks for the ship. We were set! It was now time to head to Pier 30 and our home for the next seven days - the Golden Princess.

Saturday, the twenty-third of May, we boarded our ship and checked out our cabins. We had adjoining cabins on Deck 10; cabins 721 and 723 were aft and occasionally we would notice the sea swells in rougher water. Cruising to Alaska means a fairly short season, lots of people and few bargains. The Golden Princess is a typically cruise ship with a capacity of 2,600 passengers and over a thousand crew members. We opted for the inside cabins to save some money and to our surprise, they were both pleasant and roomy. Best of all, the beds were very comfortable. One thing to remember about an inside cabin is that they are completely dark and if you're like me, sleeping is best done in total darkness.

After surveying our accomodations and orienting ourselves to the lay of the ship, we headed toward the first of many buffet lunches on the Lido deck. We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the various decks of the Princess, checking out the various activities on board and participating in the mandatory life boat exercise. That evening we would dine in the Canaleto dining room to an outstanding meal and if you're undecided which of two entrees to order - no problem - order them both!

Sunday is a sea day, so we do what you're supposed to do on a sea day - sleep in; leisurely breakfast; relax on deck with a good book; check out the fitness center (remember, I said "check it out"); grab lunch a the Lido; people watch; walk through the casino; catch a lecture on the port of Juneau; take a nap; get ready for dinner; eat another calorie-ladened meal and finally take our seats in the Princess Theatre for the evening's performance.

It's noon on Monday and we arrive at the port of Juneau, the capital of Alaska. This time of the year, I'm sure there are almost as many cruise line passengers walking around the streets of downtown Juneau as there are full time residents. Juneau is home to about thirty thousand people and though most of the gold has been mined, there is lots of gold to made from the tourist traffic. The main attraction of the day was a short bus ride to the twelve mile long Mendenhall Glacier and then a leisurely walk around the area surrounding this magnificent glacier. The picture doesn't really do it justice - you've simply got to see it to really appreciate the magnitude of this glacier. Oh, and yes, we did stop by to see if Governor Palin was home - pretty nice digs if you ask me - I don't think I would have resigned to move back to Wasilla!

We returned to the ship later that afternoon and that evening the Golden Princess set sail through the Gastineau Channel. The channel is becoming increasingly unnavigable with the increase in silt build up. If current trends continue, it is possible the channel may be entirely blocked and filled with dry land.

Our next stop, Skagway, is a brief 89.3 nautical miles from Juneau and the Golden Princess traversed the Lynn Channel and arrived at five thirty in the morning. Skagway was a major gateway for thousands of would be prospectors in hopes of striking it rich in the gold fields of the Yukon. By the turn of the century Skagway was Alaska's largest town and remnants of those heady days still remain.

We left ship after enjoying a hearty breakfast and walked the short distance to the center of the city. The White Pass and Yukon Railway is the primary tourist attraction in town, built in 1898 during the height of the goldrush, the 110 mile WP&YR Railroad was completed with the driving of the golden spike on July 29, 1900 in Carcross Yukon connecting the deep water port of Skagway Alaska to Whitehorse Yukon and beyond to northwest Canada and interior Alaska. It carries almost a half million tourists during the summer months and is the most popular shore excursion in Alaska. Unfortunately, the weather was not cooperating - it was cold and overcast - so we opted out of the expensive trip. Perhaps next visit - we'll see.

The next day we were to sail through the Tracy Arm a fjord near Juneau. The Tracy Arm area covers 653,179 acres (2,643.32 km2) and consists of two deep and narrow fjords: Tracy Arm and Endicott Arm. Both fjords are over 30 miles (48 km) long and one-fifth of their area is covered in ice. During the most recent glaciated period, this fjord filled with active glaciers. We entered Saginaw Channel, a very tight section of the Tracy Arm. There were numerous ice floes in the channel and I noticed another ship, though much smaller attempting to navigate the narrow channel. It soon became apparent that we were not going to be able to navigate the entire channel and so the Captain turned back - so much for the Tracy Arm.

The Golden Princess followed the Clarence Strait toward our next port, Ketchikan. We passed by Guard Island and entered the Tongass Narrows where the town of Ketchikan lies. We docked early in the morning and quickly left the ship for the short walk into town. This was to be a very brief visit, so we wanted to take advantage of our time on shore. Ketchikan is famous for its Totem Poles and we were able to visit an area where a native Alaskan was busy carving.

The ship left Ketchikan around noon, not enough time spent in this beautiful salmon-rich community.

We enjoyed another day at sea aboard the Golden Princess with a schedule stop in Victoria at seven o'clock Friday evening. Unfortunately, the weather was not cooperative and the Captain determined that the strong winds would not permit safe passage to the port. Since we were only scheduled to spend about four hours in Victoria, I guess we didn't miss much.

However, we did have the opportunity while aboard ship to attend several lectures from acclaimed naturalist, Michael Modzelewski. Michael lived alone on an island in the inside passage for a couple of years and essentially learned how to survive as a minimalist. His book, Inside Passage, is a treasure trove of life among the native Alaskans, animal life and the flora and fauna of the Alaskan coast. We enjoyed listening to Michael's adventures and we also had the pleasure of listening to Libby Riddles, the first female to win the 1985 Itidarod Sled Dog Race.

Well, time does seem to fly (or is it sail) when you're having so much fun, but it's time to leave the Golden Princess and take with us a week full of awesome memories, great times, interesting venues, fantastic company and way too much food. We packed up our bags early on Saturday morning, May 30th and walked down the gang plank for the final time and headed toward the nearby parking area. We drove east out of Seattle and head to our overnight visit with our wonderful hosts, Warren and Kathleen Abraham in Thompson Falls, Montana.

It was a fairly long day as we made our way east on highway 90, passing through Ellensburg, Moses Lake, Spokane, Coeur d'Alene and finally arriving in Thompson Falls later in the afternoon. The trip to Seattle through the tri-cities of Richland, Kennewick and Pasco with their agricultural base and the beautiful wine country that surrounds the area was much more scenic, but Moses Lake does boast a very beautiful lake.

Warren and Kathleen have lived in Thompson Falls for the past three years after building a truly magnificent log home on nine acres surrounded by gorgeous pine crested mountains and a river that runs right through the property a few yards from the house. I really envy their life style and Warren even has a golf course within ten minutes of his place - we played the next day and I wasn't really on my game - the long drive I'll bet!

We enjoyed their company for two days and then headed south back to Morgan . Russ and Naomi would stay another day and then head east to their home in Kansas City. They were great traveling companions having tolerated me for many a long day. They are truly the best of friends and we enjoy their company immensely.

What a trip!

California, We're coming!

Today is Tuesday, January the 13th and even though the snow has stopped falling and the temperatures have moderated it is time to head south in search of sunshine and surf. We began our journey about nine o'clock in the morning; said our good-byes to the kids, hoped for the best and jumped on I-15. The trip south was uneventful and we were able to make excellent time. We grabbed a quick sandwich at Carl's Jr. in Fillmore and were back on the road in minutes.

We arrived in Las Vegas seven hours after we left home. The weather was beautiful and we were pleased that we had left the snow behind. We checked in at our hotel, the Monte Carlo, next to the gigantic new development called City Center. City Center will feature ARIA, a soaring 61-story, 4,000-room gaming resort; three non-gaming luxury hotels including Vdara Hotel, Las Vegas’ first Mandarin Oriental, and The Harmon Hotel, Spa & Residences. Veer Towers, the development’s only strictly residential buildings will have approximately 2,600 condominium residences; a $40 million Public Fine Art Program; and Crystals, a 500,000-square-foot retail and entertainment district. Wow, is that la dolce vita, or what? I can't wait to move in and start living. You wonder if this huge project will ever meet expectations considering the severe economic conditions in Las Vegas. I guess time will tell.

On Wednesday, we strolled along Las Vegas Boulevard and stopped at the half-price ticket booth next to the larger than life Coca-Cola bottle. The current show calendar in Vegas is not that appealing, at least to this tourist, however, we did put down our forty-four dollars a ticket to see the Platters, Coasters and Marvelettes that night at the Sahara. We spent the rest of the afternoon visiting the Bodies exhibit at the Luxor. There are several traveling exhibits and since we missed the Salt Lake City exhibit, we decided to take the plunge. This exhibit was certainly one of the most educational experiences we have shared in a long time. The bodies are preserved with a polymer process that perfectly preserves the tissue and allows the viewing of every organ in the body. It was a worthwhile experience.

That evening we drove to the Sahara for an exciting time-warped experience. I knew before entering the showroom that there wouldn't be anyone under the age of forty in attendance. Well I was wrong, there were three people in their thirties, however, they were in the company of their grandparents! The room was about two-thirds full and though we had paid for "VIP" seating, we decided to move to the back for a better view. First on stage were the Coasters, a group that I honestly could not place, but when they began their repertoire, I did recognize their music. Their music was a collaborative effort of the famed writing duo of Leiber and Stoller. Yakety Yak", featuring King Curtis on tenor saxophone, included the famous lineup of Gardner, Guy, Jones and Gunter, it became the act's only national #1 single, and also topped the R&B chart. The next single, "Charlie Brown", reached #2 on both charts. This was followed by "Along Came Jones", "Poison Ivy" (#1 for a month on the R&B chart), and "Little Egypt (Ying-Yang)".

Next up, the immortal Platters, of course, the originals members are either long dead or in a nursing home, but you'd never know it, this group was the Platters in every way. The moment the music began there was instant recognition from such classics as: "Only You," "The Great Pretender," "My Prayer," "Twilight Time" and "Smoke Gets in Your Eye". You see, even you remember some of these classics, right? The evening ended with an appearance by a very young "Marvelettes" singing their top hit, "Please Mr. Postman" and a few other hits from their past - they were a motown sensation in the 60's.

We joined the rest of the geezerly crowd and ambled out of the theatre heading towards our respective rooms and the long-awaited satin sheets and down-filled pillows on our beds. Well, maybe not satin or down, but welcome anyway to these tired folks. Once in our room, I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow drifting away to the tune of "My Prayer".

The next day we arose early and enjoyed a hearty breakfast at the buffet and decided to drive to the Colorado River and Laughlin, about two hours south of Las Vegas. We drove south on US 95, the Veterans Memorial Highway, until we reached the once bustling berg of Searchlight. According to Nevada Senator Harry Reid, who has written extensively about his hometown, the most likely story on how it got its name was when George Frederick Colton was looking for gold in the area in 1897 he supposedly said that it would take a searchlight to find gold ore there. Shortly thereafter he found gold leading to a boom era when Searchlight had more population than Las Vegas. At the time, it was in Lincoln County, Nevada. Between 1907 and 1910 the gold mines produced $7 million in gold and other precious minerals and the town had a population of about 1,500. Searchlight declined after 1917 but hung on as a stop on the Arrowhead Highway. In 1927, U.S. Highway 91 bypassed the town and its population dropped to 50. The town had a resurgence in the 1930s and 1940s with the construction of nearby Hoover Dam and was home to the El Rey Bordello in the 1940s and early 1950s when it burned. The last gold mine ceased operating around 1953.

We stopped at the local convenience store and encountered a very interesting character by the name of Robert (Robair). Robert was standing outside the store with his bicycle loaded down with what must have been 800 pounds of assorted gear. The bicycle was essentially his storage van, completely unrideable, but perfect to haul his necessities as he traversed the countryside. Robert told us that he had traveled nine thousand miles in the name of Jesus - he was sort of a one man missionary. He related a story of how he had crossed the high desert of Nevada and became bogged down in a major snow storm and survived the night huddled in his makeshift lean to. His journey had certainly been challenging and had taken him to far reaches of the country, from the plains to the ocean. Perhaps an angel was traveling with him since he looked in fine spirits and in good health considering the arduous nature of his journey. We wished him safe travels, tucked a twenty dollar bill in his hand and bade him farewell as we too continued on our journey.

Soon we arrived in the Colorado River town of Laughlin, an oasis in the desert. Laughlin and Bullhead City are connected by a bridge across the Colorado and the border to California is just a few miles away. A sliver of the Colorado River Valley where Nevada, California and Arizona meet has been transformed into a fast-growing tourist destination and gambling resort in a few short decades. Laughlin's current location was established in the 1940's with the South Pointe due to its proximity to Nevada's southern tip. The settlement consisted of a motel and bar that catered to gold and silver miners who dotted the map, and to the many construction workers who built Davis Dam. Davis Dam was designed to help regulate the mighty Colorado and to provide electricity to the Southwest. Once the dam was completed, construction workers left and the motel fell into disrepair.

Across the River, Bullhead City flourished in the glow of the casino light. Shuttle boats transported customers from the Arizona side of the river to Laughlin's resorts. During the 1980s a surge of casino construction exploded in Laughlin. The Colorado Hotel (now the Pioneer), the Regency Sam's Town Gold River (now the River Palms) and the Edgewater opened early in the decade. The activity attracted other investors to begin a second boom resulting in the construction of the Colorado Belle, Harrah's Del Rio, Ramada Express and finally, in 1990, the Flamingo Hilton. In 1987, Don Laughlin funded and built the Laughlin Bridge at a cost of $3.5 million. He donated the bridge to the states of Nevada and Arizona. The bridge carries 2,000 vehicles daily. We crossed the bridge in the afternoon having spotted another oasis on the other side of the river - Sam's Club!

We had lunch at Don Laughlin's Riverside Casino, yes, another scrumptious buffet surrounded by mostly old people. Their buses had just arrived and they were headed straight to the buffet before gathering their hot nickles waiting to be sent on a one way trip in the slot machine. We made a brief stop at the pier where boats transport gamblers from casino to casino and you can even take an excursion on the Colorado River to the London Bridge at Lake Havasu - yep, that's me. After lunch we drove back to Las Vegas and our room at the Monte Carlo, tomorrow would be another long drive to Los Angeles.

The next morning we grabbed lunch and filled up the tank for the last leg of our trip to Los Angeles. Fortunately, the traffic was very light virtually the entire way to Los Angeles and we made it to the city in a little more than four hours. We arrived at 1401 El Rito in the early afternoon and were met at the door by Sandra and Bruce, our gracious hosts for whom we will be house sitting and cat sitting for the next seven days. Their Glendale home is near perfect, I knew we were going to enjoy our week of luxury, especially after I saw the king-sized bed cloaked in a down filled comforter and surrounded by about a dozen down pillows! Wow, I'm going to really enjoy this royal treatment, I just hope it doesn't spoil me.

Bruce and Sandra (Here's Bruce in the kitchen getting ready to leave)
filled us in on the routine and what Harley, their Persian cat, would require and then left us to our own elements as they departed for Costa Rica. We had the weekend to kick back and plan our activities for the coming week. I had earlier made reservations for live tapings of several television shows including, The Big Bang Theory; The New Adventures of Christine and 'Til Death. I wasn't very familiar with any of these sitcoms, but hey, the tickets were free and visiting a "hot" set is always interesting.

We would also do a studio tour at Paramount and I thought that would be fun, especially passing under one of the most famous gates in the world - the Bronson Gate. Incidentally, Charles Bronson, the fantastic actor in Death Wish, The Magnificent Seven and hundreds of other films took his stage name from this iconic gate since his real name Buchinsky was not opening any doors in Hollywood. During the three hour tour we saw Lucy's Park where Lucille Ball brought her children to play while she was working when Desilu Studios owned a portion of the lot. We also saw New York Street, the set used for many television and film productions. It was great fun.

On Sunday, we drove to Port Hueneme to visit my Aunt Lucille, who at eighty-eight is still a marvel of good health and high energy. We shared lunch at the Whale's Tail at the marina and I ordered absolutely the best clam chowder in the world. Well, it might be a tie with the chowder at Duke's in Seattle, but both are excellent. Okay, so most of my chowder experience has been at Red Lobster, still, I do know good chowder when I taste it and this was really good! Shirley and Lucy both ordered fish 'n chips and despite their urgings to share their bountiful platter, it wasn't necessary, they both managed to clean their plates.

This may have been our last visit with Lucy in Port Hueneme since she informed us that she will be moving to Denver in the spring to be near her son and his family. I reckon we'll be seeing her in Denver, preferably in the summer months. We'll miss the drive north when visiting California, but hey, Santa Barbara is always a possibility.

Monday was spent mostly driving through the various parts of the big city. We stopped for lunch at La Golondrina on Olvera Street, the food is mediocre, but the atmosphere surrounding the restaurant is pure Mexican. After lunch we hoofed across the street to Union Station, a landmark in Los Angeles and still a very active terminal. There were lots of folks, young and old waiting patiently for the next train to take them east. I pictured this bustling train station during World War II as the troops left home for, in some cases, the last time. I love train stations and if only the walls could speak, oh what stories they could tell. Trains are such an important part of our history, I hope they'll always be with us in some form or another. Don't you?

That evening we ate dinner at the Capri Italian Restaurant in Eagle Rock. The restaurant is owned and operated by the Thiel twins, sons of an old colleague in the publishing world. The twins had a collective fifteen minutes of fame in their younger years when they did a Doublemint gum commercial and a few other brief appearances on several sitcoms. Today they just run this neighborhood restaurant and I got the impression that a visit from Chef Ramsey would certainly help. In our opinion, the food was not very good and the ambiance needed a major face lift - but, some folks find it quaint.

The rest of the week we hit the highlights including a visit to the Mission San Fernando Rey de España in he northern end of the San Fernando valley. The mission was founded September 8th, 1797 by Padre Fermin Francisco de Lasuén. The mission is named for St. Ferdinand, King of Spain. The Indian name was Pashecgna. A variety of problems, including the 1812 earthquakes and the digging up of the church floor by gold prospectors when gold was discovered nearby caused much of the mission to fall into disrepair. Some restored structures include the church, monastery and some quarters around the quadrangle. The church is active today and we visited the chapel and other historic portions of the mission as well as museum. The mission is also the final resting place of Bob Hope. As a matter of fact, on his deathbed, one of his daughters asked him where he wanted to be buried and his classic reply was, "surprise me". Bob would have been pleased with her choice.
Oh, and here's a picture of me on the mission grounds and no, I'm not doing what you think I'm doing!

That evening we attended the taping for the "Big Bang Theory", a hot new sitcom about a group of nerds. This is not a program that I have followed and the few times I've watched it, I really couldn't get into it, but I rather enjoyed his episode, especially the scenes with Kaley Cuoco (Penny). She almost makes up for suffering through the likes of Sheldon (Jim Parsons). I really think this series is targeted primarily at the under twenty-five audience and perhaps, that's why I often just don't get it.

The next evening we sat through a taping of "The New Adventures of Old Christine" with Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Clark Gregg and Wanda Sykes. Again, not a series that I have followed faithfully, but it is really a good one and well worth watching. The actors are really superb and Wanda Sykes is really funny, you can certainly understand her success as a stand-up comedian. In this episode, Christine (Julia) and Richard (Clark) currently separated, are having major issues over who is the best parent for Ritchie (Trevor Gagnon). It had some very hilarious moments and I'm looking forward to seeing it run.

Today is Tuesday, the 27th of January. Yesterday was my birthday and I still can't believe I'm old, what the hell happened to the last forty years? It seems like I was young only yesterday and now, oh hell, I have to admit it, I'm officially a geezer! The children and grandchildren called to remind me of this momentous occasion, I even heard from my son, who has a definite aversion to phones. By the way, these two Geezers express my view of old age perfectly!

Everybody Loves San Diego

Sandra and Bruce returned from their vacation to Costa Rica and after assuring them that Harley was alive and scratching, we thanked them for their hospitatlity and grabbed our bags. For insurance purposes, I took this picture of Harley just before we left as proof of his good health. I also caught a snap of Sandra and her guests on the porch as we bid farewell. Sandra and Bruce were awesome hosts and we really enjoyed spending time in their beautiful home. I guess we passed the test too, since we've been invited back next January. Awesome! We hopped in the car and turned on the GPS as we headed to our next stop, San Diego.

The weather was perfect, of course, after all, this is San Diego. We arrived at North Island Naval Station and immediately checked in with base lodging. After unloading and decompressing, we decided to drive to Balboa Park, the most beautiful public park in America. Much of the park's look and feel today is due to the development done for the 1915 Panama-California Exposition. The Exposition was to celebrate the completion of the Panama Canal, which opened in 1914, and to tout San Diego as the first U.S. port of call for vessels traveling north after passing through the canal. In 1868, civic leaders set aside a 1,400 acre parcel of land on a scrub-filled mesa overlooking the "New Town" (the current San Diego downtown area), which became known as "City Park".

The park remained undeveloped for some 20 years. Balboa Park is a 1,200 acre urban cultural park in San Diego, California, United States named after the Spanish explorer Vasco Núñez de Balboa. Placed in reserve in 1835, it is one of the oldest sites in the United States dedicated to public recreational usage. Besides open areas and natural vegetation, it contains a variety of cultural attractions including museums, theaters, gardens, shops and restaurants as well as the world-renowned San Diego Zoo. Balboa Park was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1977. The park is managed and maintained by the City of San Diego Parks and Recreation Department.



While walking through the park we discovered the Spanish Village Art Center a collection of quaint buildings and courtyards built in 1935 to depict a charming old village in Spain for the second California Pacific International Exposition. These cottages are home to numerous artists and here we met Susan Smith, a very talented photographer who uses computer imaging techniques to produce some very interesting and unusual pieces. We purchased a small piece entitled "Street Bike" that she took while visiting Prague. We left Susan with our best wishes, artists need lots of encouragement and we need artists. We were also treated to a group of street entertainers as we made our way out of the park. They were quite talented and fun to watch - we made a donation to the cause. The world needs more street entertainers.


Later that night we attended a performance of, John Guare’s "Six Degrees of Separation" , at the Old Globe Theatre in the park. The Globe was modeled after Shakespeare’s Old Globe in London, it was built in 1935 to present abridged versions of Shakespeare’s plays as part of the California Pacific International Exposition. We had an opportunity to attend another performance a couple of years ago and it is always a wonderful experience. Tonight's performance was no exception.

On Wednesday, we decided to spend the day on the island so we left the inn that morning and walked to the Del Coronado Hotel a distance of about two miles. It was an absolutely beautiful day as we walked down Orange Street passing the million dollar plus homes that line the street. To live on Coronado Island is indeed a privilege and I have the impression that the people who are so blessed fully realize their good fortune. Here on this idyllic bit of heaven a small two-bedroom cottage would fetch at least a million dollars. Coronado has not been as deeply affected by the housing crunch seen nationally and in particular here in California. I suspect part of the reason is that much of the population has been here for numerous years and reflect an older more stable demography. Interestingly, the island is home to the largest group of retired senior naval officers in the country.


As we walked by the Crown City Inn and Bistro we stopped for a moment to admire an especially well cared for cottage and we met Jack McGuane who had also stopped to consider the home's landscaping. Jack is a member of the "Greatest Generation" and served along with 458 of his fellow seamen during World War II on the U.S.S. Concord USS an Omaha-class light cruiser. On August 31st, 1945 the Concord stood out from Adak, covering the occupation landings at Ominato, Japan, between 8 September and 14 September, and sailed on to Pearl Harbor, the Canal Zone, Boston, and Philadelphia where she was decommissioned.

Jack revelled us with tales of his life during the war and after. After twenty-six years, he retired from active duty and settled down to his second career as an attorney. He was a self-taught lawyer and after passing the bar practiced his profession for another twenty-five years. Jack has led an interesting life and at eight-five or so, he was still a marvel of good health and mental quickness. His wife of many years had passed away last November so Jack was experiencing profound loneliness for the first time in many years. We enjoyed meeting Jack and I think he really enjoyed meeting Shirley since he took it upon himself to place a very strategic kiss on her lips as we were leaving. Best wishes, Jack.

We arrived at the crown jewel of the island, the Del Coronado Hotel and walked through the lavish lobby and wandered about the shops that cater to the hotel residents. The grounds of the hotel are magnificent and arguably the most prized beach in all of San Diego is but a few steps from the balcony of the hotel. The rates at the Del begin at four hundred dollars a night to upwards of two thousand dollars! Breakfast is not included. We walked on the beach for about an hour soaking up the sun and surf and enjoying every minute. The Del is a real treat.


We grabbed some lunch at Panera - great homemade soups and paninis and then headed back to the base. That afternoon, I grabbed my clubs and went to the Sea 'n Air Golf Course about a mile from our quarters. It was a spectacular day for golf and I enjoyed the afternoon on the links more than even the first day of the season back home.

We dined at Gordon Biersch's that evening in the Mission Center area. I'm a fan of both their caesar salad and meat loaf, servings large enough for dinner and lunch the next day. Shirley ordered the pasta marinara and she also enjoyed it for lunch the next day. There was a fairly large crowd at the restaurant noting the popularity of the place, but our wait was minimal. The service and food were outstanding - we enjoyed the evening.

The next day we prepared for our day at sea - whale watching. I took precautions before we left to ensure that I would avoid sea sickness. Dramamine is supposed to do the trick, right? We crossed the Coronado Bridge and drove to the pier where we boarded the whale watching ship. What a beautiful sight as we left the harbor and looked back at the skyline of San Diego. The harbor was filled with happy sailors and hungry fishermen and I took in all of the majesty of the sea.

Soon, perhaps a half hour after we hit open water, I started to feel a slight queasiness and within a matter of minutes all hell broke loose as I frantically reached for the plastic bag we had brought (just in case). The only thought running through my mind was how much longer we would be on that damned boat. After the initial bout of mal de mer, I felt well enough to join Shirley on the starboard side of the ship and hold on to the railing. However, I continued to grab for the bags that the crew provided and yes, fed the fish. I looked longingly at the distant sky line and hoped we would soon turn course toward solid ground. But first, we simply had to spot a grey whale and to my surprise and relief, there in front of us was a young whale. The whale catapulted his fluke in the air and released an avalanche of water through his spouts. The trip was a success especially with the added excitement of a megapod of common dolphins accompanying us as we churned through the water. All of the children on board were satisfied and of course, that's what is really important - now we could head to shore. I rested that evening and tried to recover from the effects of a day on the sea and so we fixed dinner in the suite (leftovers from Gordon Biersch's) and made an early evening of it.

Today is Friday, our last day in beautiful San Diego before we head back to Long Beach for our Mexican Riviera cruise. I have grown to love Coronado and, sadly, I'm not looking forward to the cruise - I'd much rather stay right here.

Cruisin' the Mexican Riviera

Sunday, February 1st, was another beautiful day in Southern California and we left the Marriott Courtyard in Long Beach where we had spent our last night prior to sailing on the Carnival Pride. We arose early and completed our final packing and had breakfast at the Long Beach Cafe, owned by the Stanitsas brothers, it is a very popular Long Beach landmark. Unfortunately, not all classic diners are good - this one was overpriced and the food was mediocre. However, the locals seemed to flock to the LBC which dispells the myth that you should always eat where the locals eat.

After breakfast I drove Shirley to the port where she would wait while I returned to the hotel and parked the car where it would stay for the next several days. I walked the four blocks to the bus station in downtown Long Beach and caught the red shuttle bus which navigates throughout the city and eventually winds up at the Queen Mary, our embarkation point. When I returned to where Shirley was patiently waiting with our luggage, I discovered that I had left my cell phone and eyeglasses in the hotel room. Fortunately, I had, as usual, scheduled sufficient time between leaving the hotel in the morning and the actual departure time of the ship, so it was back to the hotel on the red shuttle bus. An hour later I returned to the port and we made our way through the processing-in line. The process was very smooth, most of the other passengers had already boarded and were in the Lido room enjoying the first of many bountiful buffet meals.

We carted our bags on the ship and went directly to our cabin, number 5235, an obstructed balcony. We quickly unpacked and then, we too, headed to the buffet. We tried to minimize our consumption since dinner was but a mere three hours away, but, alas, Shirley managed that objective while I ate to my heart’s content. After we ate we returned to the cabin to watch the Super Bowl. It was a good game and the Cardinals were certainly not an embarrassment despite their loss.

We had scheduled the early dining so we made our way to the Normandie Restaurant at six o’clock. Our dinner mates soon joined us. Argie and Ed Pitcock were in their mid-seventies and lived in Daly City, south of San Francisco; Abe and Cecilia Brower , the other elderly couple, were from Queens, New York. On very few occasions do I feel young these days, but sitting at the table with these folks, I really did feel a superior sense of youthfulness. Ed was the table talker and we learned a great deal about his life, actually, a good deal more that I would have preferred. He also harbored very strong opinions about the affairs of the day and I took great pleasure in encouraging some of his more extreme views. After a fairly long day we decided to make an early evening of it and retired to our cabin.

Our first port was Puerto Vallarta and we scheduled a morning hike in the Sierra Madre Mountains. This was, of course, at Shirley’s suggestion. We met our guide, Geraldo, at the pier and boarded a bus that would take us several miles to a base camp where the adventure would begin. Once at the camp we were joined by Baltazar, a heavily armed member of the local policia. Apparently his presence was a security precaution in the event some errant banditos decided to waylay us on the trail (a comforting thought!). The hike was challenging, but not that arduous and after about an hour of steady walking and observing the flora and fauna, we arrived at a natural hot springs where we soaked our feet. After this brief stop we continued on our trek crossing a river and traversing a very steep and narrow descent. About an hour later we arrived back at base camp none the worse for the wear. It was an interesting and invigorating hike in the hills.

When we returned to the port, we grabbed a bite to eat and then decided to take a paseo (walk) along the shore. We followed several side streets until we reached the Malecon, a paved walkway along the seashore. Contemporary sculptures line the walkway, all associated with the sea. Along the beach we admired many sand sculptures that the locals produced and in many cases they rival the more permanent structures. The Malecon was extensively rebuilt in 2002-2003 following damage from hurricane Kenna. After a leisurely afternoon that included the usual window shopping through the myriad of tourist-oriented shops, we made our way back to the ship.

The next day we docked in Mazatlan and walked from the ship to the Golden Zone, an area of high rise hotels and pristine beaches. We walked nearly ten miles today as best I can judge. The best part of the walk/hike was walking along the beautiful sandy beach. The fishermen were busy preparing for tomorrow's catch and the locals were getting some beach time with the children.

We also visited the local farmer's market and got a taste of grocery shopping Mexican-style. I doubt if Shirley could come up with a palatable menu comprised of hog's heads or chicken claws, but I'll bet the Mexican's can put together a mean menudo. We experienced our fill of the local culture and headed back to the Pride.

Our final port was Cabo San Lucas on the Baja Penisula and I remembered this beautiful port from a previous visit and I was looking forward to a few hours on the beach. Land's End arch layed straight ahead as the Pride made her way into the marina.
Once anchored, we took the tender to the dock and walked through the very modern, western-style mall and passing Johnny Rocket's and other American made hot spots. We reached our objective: the absolutely stunning sands of the Sea of Cortez. We arrived early and the main beach, El Medano, had not yet filled with tourists. We rented an umbrella and two lounge chairs for ten dollars, half the opening price, and found ourselves lolling away the day watching the surf and being innundated by the multitude of beach peddlers.
We spent the better part of the day enjoying the beach, the surf, the boat traffic and our fellow beachgoers. It was heaven.

We paused for a few minutes at the fountain in front of Senor Greenberg's and Johnny Rocket's and then headed back to the ship for our journey home. It was a gorgeous sunny day in Cabo San Lucas and we could have stayed for a month.


The following day was our last day at sea and we did what we usually do on a sea day: eat, read a book, nap, walk around the ship, eat, check out the ship's library, visit the gym, tour the kitchen, eat, attend the evening performance and finally, eat some more. Sound like a pattern? Anyway, after seven days, I'm ready to get back to solid ground. We arrived at Long Beach Port about seven the next morning and we were off the ship by eight. Our next stop was a return to Coronado Island and so we grabbed our car and drove the two hours south.

Coronado Island - Once More

After our cruise we had planned to drive directly to Phoenix, however, we decided that another week in Coronado was in order. Especially since my new friend, Jim Callaway, Director of Base Housing on Coronado, whom I had met during our previous stay on Coronado, had promised us accomodations in the DV (Distinguished Visitors) quarters. We arrived in San Diego on a warm Sunday afternoon and with the help of my reliable GPS friend, we crossed the Coronado Bay Bridge and drove a few blocks to Orange Avenue, the main avenue in the village. We would be staying at the Naval Amphibious Base on the south end of the island about a mile from the famous Del Coronado Hotel.

We checked in and carried our bags to the elevator which would take us to our room on the eighth deck overlooking the gorgeous harbor and Pacific Ocean. The picture at right really doesn't do justice to the view, but it will give you some notion of the wonderful sight that we awoke to each morning. The view was magnificent and the room, though somewhat worn, was perfectly adequate. We stayed here for four nights and then decided to move back to North Island Naval Station, to experience their offering of DV quarters.

North Island is the home port of both the Nimitz and the Reagan, two of the Navy's major aircraft carriers, and also an important Navy flight training facility. Building I was the "DV" lodging and it was designed around a Spanish courtyard setting and each room was a single story that looked out to the courtyard. Our room had been recently renovated and though it lacked a kitchen, it served our purposes very well. I took the opportunity to play golf twice on the beautiful course across the street from our building. We spent four wonderful days on North Island and took every opportunity to walk in the inviting weather to the charming village of Coronado.


Wandering through town, we again encountered the great lady, the Hotel Del Coronado, holding court at the south end of the city, just a few blocks from our first quarters at the Naval Amphibious Base. The Del is a National Historic Landmark dating back to 1888. The Hotel has counted some of the world's icons, including Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra as well as every sitting President since Lyndon Johnson, as guests. Once again we walked through the luxurious shops, passing by the grand pool and deck as we made our way to the beach. The beach at the Del is absolutely glorious and the golden sands and moderate surf beckon young and old alike. Shirley walked the beach in search of assorted shells while I dared the oncoming surf to grab my shoes. Here is a picture of her exploring the tide pool.


The beach is separated from the Navy base by an imposing fence that keeps the uninvited from exploring their private beach. Fortunately, our quarters on base were about a quarter of a mile from the beach and we had ample opportunity to enjoy the solitude while we gazed at the numerous beachgoers at the Del.

I believe that Coronado Island is the closest place to paradise that exists and those fortunate residents that I spoke with heartily agreed. Ninety-three year old Cele Kipperman, whose husband and now son, operates an upscale boutique on Orange Boulevard, near the Del, called Kippy's, was a perfect example of the Island's long time residents. I met her on a walk along Ocean Boulevard and she told me that she had lived here for fifty years and that her home was a "modest" red brick bungalow a few blocks down the street. After an interesting, if brief, conversation, we went about our business and subsequently passed Mrs. Kipperman's "modest" home. In perusing the real estate magazines of properties for sale in Coronado, I would venture to say that her home was in the five million dollar range. So much for modesty!

Coronado Island was a wonderful respite from the hustle and bustle of the big city and we enjoyed our visit beyond words. Unfortunately, it was time to move on and our next stop would be a short visit to Las Vegas enroute to Phoenix.